Knitwear Design: Pattern Testing Basics
Every good knitting pattern has been tested. Even better patterns have been tested in every size available. But what is pattern testing.
As a knitwear designer, you are very close to your pattern. You know the ins and outs because you created it! You know exactly how you think and may not need to rely on your pattern to recreate your designs.
Pattern testers work up your design before you publish it to make sure everything in your head is also on the page. They also provide valuable advice along the way.
In this post, we will look at all the important information you can gather from having your pattern knit up in every size.
But I used a tech editor?
Tech editors are a wonderful thing. But they don’t actually knit up the pattern. On occasion, I might work up a few repeats of an unfamiliar stitch pattern to be sure it all works as intended. But beyond that, we rely on an in depth knowledge of how patterns work on page.
Tech editors check all the numbers are adding up, create the correct stitch pattern in all sizes and (in comparison to your gauge) should create the correct size fabric in all sizes. But we don’t knit it at all. Let alone in every size!
Fit across sizes
Your knitting pattern should have a comparable fit in every size. This is to say that if pattern size A has a comfortable positive ease while still fitting close at the cuffs, size Z should also have a comfortable positive ease while still fitting close at the cuffs. But grading appropriately doesn’t have a one size fits all solution.
A common mistake is to grade patterns without considering that arms and torsos don’t get exponentially longer. Larger bust sizes may also need extra considerations for pattern details such as circular yokes.
Pattern testers should be receiving patterns that have been written and edited with the expectation that all sizes will fit appropriately. But they are the first line of defence should any tweaks to sizing need implemented.
Clarity
As you develop as a knitwear designer, you will also develop a pattern writing voice. Even using standard notation, there is a lot of room for self-expression in patterns.
While having a pool of trusted pattern testers is valuable, it is important to let new testers into the flock occasionally. Your pattern testers will become accustomed to the way that you write. Every pattern should be completely readable to a knitter who has never knit any of your patterns before.
Clear instructions makes for a happy knitter. The most important question that you can ask your pattern testers is “Could you clearly and confidently follow every step?” If the answer is “no”, then it is time to workshop your phrasing.
Pattern errors
Your pattern should be tech edited before it reaches your pattern testers. They are working for free and shouldn’t be expected to edit your pattern or clamber around several project stopping errors.
However, both you and your tech editor are only human. Sometimes the odd incorrect stitch count or misspelt instruction will slip though. Your pattern testers will be able to let you know if they ran into any trouble with your patterns.
Yarn suggestions
Pattern testers are working for free in exchange for receiving the pattern for free. You cannot expect them to use the yarn you recommend in the pattern. Your pattern testers may have particular fibre needs/wants, budgets and colour preferences. You should give them enough guidance to make an appropriate yarn choice on their own. For example, “this pattern was designed to be stiff and structured so drapey yarn may not achieve the look in the sample photo.”
Don’t let this frustrate you. Your knitters will be exactly the same. And many would appreciate guidance on yarn substitutions.
If you have ten different testers and each of them use a different yarn, you can ask them for feedback on how the pattern worked up in that yarn. And there you go! A very low effort list of alternate yarn suggestions for your knitters.
Maybe a little bit of hype
Pattern testers are not a free marketing tool. Their role is to knit the pattern and provide feedback on their experience. You should not discount a good, reliable pattern tester simply because they aren’t on Instagram.
However, you might be lucky enough to work with a pattern tester or two who are willing to share some photos. Some pattern testers might be happy for you to use their photos on your pattern page. This can be especially helpful to show off your designs in a range of sizes. You may also be able to use their photos on your own social media, with permission. Some pattern testers may ask for guidance on when and where they can share photos of their test knits and how they can tag you in posts.
But none of this is a given part of the process. It is nice to have. But not to be expected.
That’s the basics of pattern testing. When you go to run your own pattern test, take what you’ve learnt here and formulate a feedback form so that you can gather all the right information ahead of publishing your pattern.
